John Galliano embraced the Russian look at Paris Fashion Week yesterday

The designer's ready-to-wear collection displayed peasant blouses, embroidered skirts and hip-waisted military coats teamed with towering high-heeled shoes and coin-covered headdresses. The outrageous collection - which included diaphanous vests and voluminous skirts and a Russian-style bridal gown - won praise from fashion fans and critics alike.

Model-and-actress Milla Jovovich, who was seated in the front row, said: "It was like some opening into a doorway of dreams in Russian-Ukrainian fairy tale fantasy dreams."

At the end of the show, the designer stood on the fake snow-covered catwalk to accept his applause wearing riding boots, a swashbuckler coat and tri-corner hat.

In contrast to Galliano's theatrical show, Chloe presented a traditional, feminine collection featuring slightly hippyish, flirty daywear, including several pant suits in muted tones of caramel and apricot.

Hermes made leather a heavy feature in their autumn/winter collection.

Models cleverly dressed as imitation Amelia Everharts were sent down the runway - complete with flying goggles - to showcase bomber jackets and trench coats, teamed with pleated pants and leggings.

Designer Jean-Paul Gaultier explained: "I was inspired by a woman, I forgot her name, an American pilot with very short, wavy hair who was wearing an aviator jacket - which I love - and a little scarf that was so Hermes. That's when I said, 'ah ha, that's it.'"

Among the accessories showed by the fashion house was a modified version of the legendary Birkin bag, which has done away with the traditional flap opening.

Kenzo were also inspired by Russia, showcasing oversized felt coats and huge striped knits teamed with knit caps and bulky scarves.

Designer Antonio Marras said he had considered how Russian women dress for the colder months. He said: "It's a very, very cold winter in Russia. She packs her trunk) with a military jacket, an embroidered dress, platform boots, scarves, gloves ... In Paris, you have the marriage between Russian culture and French allure."