Spanish Fashion: Delpozo Fall/Winter 201530 April 2015 | + Boyana Dimova
The Delpozo Fall Winter 2015 collection blends the colorful palette of Australian artist Rhys Lee with Russian painter Andrey Remnev’s modern interpretation of the Pre-Raphaelite spirit.
This season’s silhouette are straight and structured, with an emphasis on vertical volume highlighted by the column shape. The natural shoulder is concealed through the use of firm shoulder pads and light, rounded balloon sleeves. These add a visual lightness and a modern geometry. Contained volume and Delpozo’s hallmark architectural tailoring appear in structured peplums and in the grid-like arrangement of panels and fabrics, which allow for a sense of organic movement within the garments.
Rich fabrics such as wool voile, crepe, felt, mouflon and velvet are at the forefront this fall. Velvet in particular plays a key role in the collection, appearing in three different iterations: technical velvet, comfortable and flexible, is integrated into day wear; traditional velvet reads as sumptuous and substantial; and devoré velvet, made from a silk base, is incorporated into evening wear. Handcrafted fabric flowers, artfully shaped petal by petal by the DELPOZO atelier, blossom across blouses and dresses.
Elsewhere, the embroidery adds brightness to the collection with metallic appliqués on bases of black and beige, creating intricate geometric patterns. Knitwear blends mohair, merino wool, and alpaca with silk. Embroidered crochet frills run along ample knitted dresses while other pieces feature colorful leather patchwork designs.
The season’s color palette takes inspiration from the gestural brushstrokes of Rhys Lee: Yves Klein blue mixes with blush, and green, red, black and chocolate brown appear alongside nude. Color and texture continue to play a signature role for DELPOZO this season.
These codes of the house are also evident in the footwear for Fall/Winter 2015. Of particular importance is the rounded toe shape of the poupée pump, which appears throughout the collection in an explosion of color and texture. Calfskin collages add visual relief to the season’s boots.
Andrey Remnev’s artwork depicts richly imagined backdrops nd sumptuous textiles, against which emerges a woman of depth and substance. Strong yet romantic, feminine but mysterious, this DELPOZO woman embodies the Fall Winter 2015 collection.
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