Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2015: Ralph Russo28 August 2015 | + Boyana Dimova
A renewed interpretation of Ralph & Russo's romantic sensibility is unleashed for Autumn/Winter 2015-2016, manifesting in sensual femininity and sexy sophistication. The collection is spectacle of love-laden wonders; a tour de force of elaborate design and labour-intensive artistry.
Armour-like tailleurs are encrusted with crystal and pearl mosaics, and dense ogival motifs adorn structured jackets wherefrom grand ovate forms shell out dramatically in the essence of a Faberge egg. Optical and graphic, the workmanship is a sublime blend of tradition and modernity.
In a subtle demonstration of pure technical wizardry, motifs on elaborate tone-on-tone embroideries - silk and metallic thread work and ornate micro-beaded floral reliefs unearthed in Lesage's archives of the 1960s - are meticulously matched to geometrical perfection in flowless tailoring. Lustful Guipure is enhanced with cut-outs of its own and pompon tassels are made of mink. Even brocades are bejewelled. Delicate floral silk needlework curls extravagantly into a maze across the body, appliqued with feather petals - cut, coiled and braided.
Satins are masterly cut sheathing the body like liquid bronze. Air-light tulle swirls and twists dazzlingly while capes are delicately light in spirit, billowing at times to reveal Rococo heels.
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