Womenswear: Paul Smith Spring/Summer 2016 collection03 November 2015 | + Boyana Dimova
For spring/summer ‘16, inspiration comes from independent minds. A gentle rebellion against sartorial tradition sees tailoring rules subverted in sleeveless jackets and bias cut skirts, whilst couture fabrics are offset with naïve screen-printing techniques.
Optimistic shades prevail on panels of print, the pleats of ‘concertina’ handbags and liquorice-stick-like leather belts. Bolts of blue and orange take influence from the men’s spring/summer ‘16 collection, where suits were brightly colour-blocked, inspired by Hockney’s unbeatable eye for vibrant tones.
Loose silk - screening is inspired by methods used by Paul at the beginning of his career. The imperfection of hand-done approaches is elevated through fabrication and finish. Prints featuring cutout collages, brush-strokes and stripes of every scale are recurring themes throughout the collection. Each are applied to textural bases such as seersucker and sometimes embellished with broderie anglaise.
Fabrics bring roundness and fluidity, softening more structured tailoring elements. The silhouette exemplifies the confidence and independent spirit of the collection. Bias cuts in skirts, volume in trouser legs and extreme peak lapels demonstrate individuality of Paul Smith’s woman for spring/ summer 16.
British post-punk bands from across the decades such as The Raincoats, Life Without Buildings and The Slits created a rebellious and energetic spirit. This was heightened by tracks from Neneh Cherry, Laurie Anderson and Kim Gordon, each a fiercely independent and utterly unique voice in their own right.
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